Return to the Peloponnese

 It’s very windy this morning and there is a lot of dark cloud on the mountains. Infact the breeze is cooling as we cycle laden once more up the long hill out of Koroni. We pass through several small villages as we hug the coast around the bay. It’s now pretty flat and we make good progress despite the odd drop of rain and barking dogs. We meet a German couple coming in the opposite direction who are also cycle touring. They are now on electric bikes and heavily laden for a 2 month trip! I’m a bit envious of the possibilities that a motor would open up! Coffee in the square at Petalidi and then along a rather more main road to the airport area. We turn off towards the coast and stop for a salad, saganaki and beer by the sea. It’s calmer now but still grey and overcast. After 35 miles we arrive back at our Grand Hotel where we have a welcome shower and rest before a wonder along the seafront.  We have an Aperol on the harbour front. It’s much busier and more lively than 2 weeks...

 We head off out and up from Koroni to join the main Kalamata road and make our way to Akti Peroulia. An attractive beach with fine views across to Kalamata and the Mani. There is even a lift to the beach, but we use the steps.  Lunch on the fabulous restaurant terrace overlooking the Messinian Gulf . I get  more comments on my Mamoz T shirt! We see if we can tell the difference between Alpha and Mythos  we can’t! We cycle back as the sun dips beneath the hills behind us. Rosé and nuts in the balcony as we plan where to eat tonight   After Aperol on the waterfront we revisit Bogris 2 and have lemon chicken with rice and beef and onion with orzo all chosen from the the kitchen and no need for menus    

 Happy Birthday Izzie! 30 years old today!  A rather Greek breakfast in front of our hotel with compulsory omelette and toasties. We have to leave a lot which seems very wasteful. We walk through the whitewashed and cobbled streets up to the castle for fine views. We visit the monastery still inhabited by Nuns where we have to cover our shoulders for modesty. Then down to Zaga beach where we enjoy a couple of hours sunshine before thunder claps and lightning forks and the clouds roll in. Everyone escapes to the restaurant at the back of the beach although infact the rain never comes to very much. Incredibly slow service but we have time to kill over a Greek salad and some fried zucchini. Eventually the storm passes but it’s still rather windy for total comfort. We swim in quite rough seas before heading back to our balcony as the wind drops.  We eat right by the water's edge as the sun sets and the Taygetos mountain range fades into darkness. Red snapper with vegetables, ...

 A slightly strange breakfast on the terrace near the road and then we are off to Peralia. It’s about 8 km away but up a long hill out of Koroni and then down a steep slope to the beach which makes us worry about the return at the end of the day.  It’s a beautiful stretch of sand and there are lots of caretta caretta turtle nests along it. They are marked with sticks and little signs in various languages on them state that the eggs were laid in June and take between 40 and 60 days to hatch   Good views over towards the Mani and the pyramidal Profitis Elias mountain pokes out form some whispy clouds surrounding it.  The return trip isn’t as steep as we feared and we are rewarded with a superb swoop down into Koroni. We don’t really fancy supper so we wander around the town and up to the church for some lovely sunset views  

 We’re so sad to leave this blissful setting. I think this is my favourite place in Greece. We enjoy our final swim in the aquarium and breakfast on the balcony before pedalling off, heavy laden once again. We start with a stinking hill of course and then a very aggressive barking dog to get my adrenaline going! It’s hot out if the wind. We wend our way over to Methoni. I am excited to revisit the castle which was a highlight on our previous visit. However we are greeted with “closed on Tuesdays”! We walk around the walls and grab a few distant photos. So disappointing. Onwards to Finikounda where we refresh with a delicious fresh orange juice and plenty of water before we commence the hour long ascent etched on our memories from 2015. It’s steep in places but the views are dramatic and I’m beginning to get used to these challenges on our holidays! It’s a glorious swoop down the other side although the blue sky seems to evolve into grey cloud as we descend. We stop for lunch at a t...

 We start the day with another early morning swim in the calm sea. It’s a beautiful part of the day. We swim over lots of bluey green fish    We split the day into two. A cycle ride to the far part of Navarino Bay where we were yesterday and then the rest at the hotel.  On our return we decide to have an authentic Gyro from an unassuming place beneath the plane trees in the square. They are delicious but maybe not healthy. Pork shaved off from the turning Gyro is packed into a pitta bread with tomatoes, tzatziki onion and chips. Just what we wanted after a sweaty and dusty ride back. And Mamoz beer to wash it down. Incredibly cheap.  We then visit a cake shop and buy baklava and Galaktoboureka which is a Greek custard pie in filo pastry with a sweet syrup soaking through it. I remember eating this at Kosmas in the mountains last year when we had been climbing for hours. We have these with tea later on our balcony and they are superb.  Supper at O Aetos ( th...

 The sea is so calm and clear for our swim this morning. We manage quite a way and there are so many fish. We cycle off soon after breakfast and buy provisions from our favourite fruit shop and bakery before the gentle ascent up and over out of Pylos. We go round Navarone Bay and follow the dirt track to the far end at Giolova Lagoon. We’re one of the first to arrive and find a good spot where we can keep an eye on the bikes. The waiter at our hotel had warned us about the risk of theft! Many swims and chapters later we decide to do a circular walk to Paleokastro and Voidokilia and back. Stunning scenery. I’m becoming quite the mountaineer in my bikini and sandals! We eat our spinach pie and fruit but then begin to feel rather frazzled. We have no shade and it’s 31 degrees today. We decide to cycle back and relax on the sun loungers by our hotel and are pleased to rinse off the sand! An Aperol Spritz in the square watching the world go by before supper right on the water’s edge at ...